Showing posts with label Journal. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Journal. Show all posts

Wednesday, July 31, 2013

A Fairer World


A Fairer World
Dushambe, Tajikistan; 2003

The boys were running around outside playing. I could hear them squealing and giggling as they chased each other around the yard. The yard wasn’t very big but for a ten and nine year old it sufficed to keep them occupied in their games. I could hear their bare feet clapping the concrete floor when they came inside for a glass of water. I heard the refrigerator open and the rattling of glasses, the opening of the water bottles and the sloshing of water as it spilled. And then the squealing and giggling resumed outside. It went on for a few more minutes before there was a sharp cry and then tears. I dropped my sponge into the bucket and ran outside with the other girl to find my brother looking anxiously on as the other boy’s knee slowly trickled blood onto our yard. I took charge and poured cold water on his knee and sloppily applied a band-aid on it before the boys returned to their games and I to the chores with the girl.

I had personal chores at my father’s house in New York and my mother’s in Dushambe, such as picking up my clothes and cleaning my room but, at the tender age of 12, I had never before scrubbed a floor on my knees nor washed the windows and tables. But here I was, with a girl who was meant to be a guest at my house, doing just that. When she arrived, I had tried to suggest a number of things we could do while she visited but she had quietly shook her head. Smilingly, she fetched the cleaning supplies and, in broken English, suggested to me that we clean. Not knowing what else to do, I obliged. My brother, having just recovered from rather intense altitude sickness associated with the drive from Tashkent, Uzbekistan, was happy to go outside to play with her brother while we two remained inside my mother’s home and cleaned. This was, for her, normal. For me, it was sufficiently quirky to almost be fun but it left me somewhat uneasy and not because of the actual chores.

But still I wondered, why were the boys playing outside while we girls were meant to be doing chores inside? Why did she and I live such different lives? What made us different except where and to whom we were born?

Flash forward a few days and I found myself sitting high on a majestic horse, grinning foolishly. My brother whimpers nearby. I plead to be allowed to ride. They decline and indicate that my brother may if he chooses. I am relegated a donkey that I proceed to steer directly into a wall. Later, at tea, they ask if he’ll stay the night. His continued whimpering is the only response they get from him. My mother and I are the only women in the room. The rest duck in to serve us tea and immediately dart back outside. I kept waiting for them to come back, for the mother to engage in conversation and for them to ask for me to spend the night because, after all, most of the household members were women. But it never happens.

Why were the women left as mere servants in the party and not active participants? Why were my mother and I treated differently? Why couldn't I ride the horse?

Then suddenly the trip is over and I’m sitting in a small aircraft, sweating profusely, with my brother and my nanny headed back to the United States. They hand out boiled eggs instead of peanuts. I wiggle around before take off and the seat in front of me is suddenly in my lap. Once we’re in the air, I’m freezing cold. And then about fourteen hours later, I’m back in the US.

The memories of a twelve year old are fragile. They come and go and putting together a vignette from them is like sewing together a coherent patchwork quilt from scraps found strewn about the house. There are some pieces that are too small to cover large expanses and others that feel so large that they overwhelm the blanket. But at the end, something sticks out.

I left that trip with this this peculiar feeling in my stomach that didn’t pass even after I reacclimated to American food. It didn’t pass once school started again. It didn’t pass even after I had all but forgotten the trip. In fact, it still hasn’t passed.

From that day onward I had a burning desire to make the world a fairer place. How I planned to do that has taken on different forms, shedding one skin for another, adopting a variety of different words to describe the same thing, diverse career paths and even fields but at the end of the road lies the same bright light. 
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For any other information related to this piece, feel free to leave a comment or to contact me via email, via twitter or any other imaginative way you can think of!

If this is your first time here, check out my Introduction to the Blog and Introduction to Africa

Thursday, July 11, 2013

Back in Africa/Why Africa?

As I walked out of the Lagos airport towards the bus that was going to take me to the domestic terminal where I was to catch my flight to Abuja and the power went out in the parking lot, I knew I was back in Africa. As someone hastily grabbed my suitcase from me and lugged it to the bus hoping for a tip, I knew I was back in Africa.  As the heat crept in through my clothes and the moist air enveloped me, I knew I was back in Africa. As the rowdy chatter of passengers waiting for the bus to leave filled my ears, I knew I was back in Africa. And it was okay because this was My Africa.


Allow me to explain.

Riding in the back of a pick up truck in Botswana

Africa to me is not a continent of despair or hopelessness, or of theft and rent-seeking or of power cuts and water shortages. Yes, these things exist and happen in Africa but that is not what I think of as My Africa. For me Africa is the little kids who grab at my hair with huge grins on their face in Kafunchan, Nigeria. It’s dancing by a bonfire in Gabane, Botswana. It’s sitting by Lake Malawi and listening to the waves softly kiss the rocks underneath the platform where I sit reading. It's clutching onto the sides of a motorcycle as I whiz down a hill in Sierra Leone and feeling the wind rushing through my hair and the dust filling my nose and mouth. It's carefully tiptoeing through West Point in Liberia as barefoot, deliriously happy children pull me in every direction to show me their homes in the sprawling slum while I avoid stepping on shards of glass and getting plastic bags caught on my foot. Its drinking adulterated palm wine and gagging at the taste but swallowing it anyway out of politeness in Kabala, Sierra Leone. Its standing beside run down car, peeling a perfectly ripe avocado with a swiss army knife in stopped traffic driving into the mountains of Guinea. Its smoking a cigarette while precariously huddled over the front of a moving pick up truck, shivering in Botswana's winter as we race towards the desert races at night. Its sitting in my cubicle at UNICEF pouring over strategy papers on how to save the youth of Malawi. Its drinking a pink drink in Pretoria. 

But I can't hide from the reality of the situation around me. Because Africa is also seeing the stunted children running after me begging for money in Liberia. Its also the youth handicapped by the war in Sierra Leone. Its the corrupt customs officer at the Lagos airport who stole my iPhone. Its the devastating inequality in Botswana. Its the endemic racism I see by people against themselves, the injustices that go ignored because life is treated cheaply here, the entrenched poverty contrasted with how the top live in their palaces with their porches. Its both the corruption in everyday lives and interactions and the massive corruption by the cunning who are fleecing their countrymen and sapping their country dry. Its the wars that are chronicled in movies only after the fact and rarely, if ever, acted to prevent or stop. Its the perpetrators of horrific acts and their victims. Its the preventable deaths. Its the potholes and the collapsing buildings.
The beautiful faces in West Point
the biggest slum in Morovia, Liberia

How am I supposed to reconcile these two scenes? They are, after all, the same places. Where does that leave me? 

People ask me why I love this place so much. Why did I permanently imprint an image of the continent on myself ("Hey! You've got AFRICA on you!")? Why doI keep coming back even after I kept getting sick and eventually almost died (though that was largely my own fault - the poor quality of the healthcare only added to the trouble. A story for another time)? Why do I know that I won't be vacationing in Paris or London next summer?

Because I love this continent. Its diversity. Its life. Its vehement drive to survive against all odds. Its lack of despair even when there is cause. Its dearth of pretention. Its hidden gems. Its subtle, nuanced, intricate lessons. Its hidden adventures. Its burgeoning and existing challenges.

I can't readily explain why I'm so drawn to this continent more than I am to Europe, arguably my first home, or North America, my second. The best I can do is try to explain it through this blog. Through painting a picture with words (and some photos...) of the continent and the countries within it that act as such a strong magnet to me.

Making our way around Conakry, Guinea

Wednesday, July 10, 2013

Introduction

Hide and Seek in Sierra Leone
I've decided to keep a blog because people keep asking me what I'm up to.

I'm up to a lot. Since leaving New York in May, I've been to Nigeria, Botswana, South Africa and Malawi. Still to go is at least Mozambique and South Africa (again) and perhaps Zimbabwe and Swaziland depending on how the wind blows.

I've danced at bonfires, ridden on motorcycles, had a few braiis (bbq), taken public buses, eaten bush meat, drank palm wine, interviewed prestigious people, met some wonderful friends, been scared, been drunk, been tired, been elated...

Its been a great trip and if you're interested in hearing more, stick around! This blog will start with the present day but I'll flash back to earlier parts of the trip... maybe even to Sierra Leone, Vietnam, Rwanda, Liberia, Guinea, Costa Rica, Mexico, Hungary, Poland, Czech Republic, Tajikistan, Germany...

Helicopter to Freetown with my
brother

Eventually though this trip will end and I'll return to NYC. But I'll keep writing if there's any interest in reading. So if you read this and enjoy it... let me know by leaving a comment, shooting me an email or telling me somehow. If you read it and don't enjoy it, well that's fine too. Let me know! I'm always looking for feedback on my writing and stimulation for my thoughts.

As I write this, I'm sitting at my desk at the UNICEF office in Malawi. Its my 2nd full day of work and I'm excited. I'll be doing a combination of mundane administrative tasks and thrilling human interest pieces and difficult content creation for the website. I'm excited to get to travel in Malawi and see the work that UNICEF is doing. I'm excited to interview the Country Director of UNICEF here, Mr. Mahimbo Mdoe, and write the story of what drives him.

I'm also excited for non-work stuff (for a change). I'm going to be learning to SCUBA while I'm here, even though that entails risking contracting bilharzia (its treatable but not really preventable). I'm learning to play rugby while I'm here too. Yesterday was my first practice. I escaped relatively unscathed save for one missing toe nail.

So with that, I'm going to get back to the work on the desk in front of me. I have to familiarize myself with UNICEF's work here quickly so that I can get to writing!


In the future my entires will not take the form of journal entries (like this one) but instead of vignettes styled as short stories that offer a description of the action, the context and a snip of what it meant to me. Those of you who know me may have read a piece I wrote about working in the children's hospital in Freetown, Sierra Leone. That's what I'm aiming for. Those of you who haven't read it, fear not. I'll post it here one week if I have severe writer's block!

My goal is to post something at least once a week while I'm here. Hopefully exciting stuff will happen often enough that I can post something interesting regularly and I promise I won't resort to silly filler pieces.

So thank you for bearing through that long (and rambly) post. I look forward to writing for you again in the future!

Peace out from Vietnam!